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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. But, situated prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.